The Key: trade fair for green fashion in Berlin. 1st - 4th of July 2009

Previously a secret: the location for The Key is going to be the Alte Post in Berlin-Neukölln.

"Die Veranstalter der grünen Modemesse TheKey, die erstmals vom 1. bis 4. Juli zur Berliner Modewoche statffinden soll, haben das Geheimnis um ihre Location gelüftet: Die 80 bis 100 Brands für grüne Mode sollen sich in der Alten Post in Berlin-Neukölln präsentieren." (gruenemode.de)

Mehr Infos hier.

I love your style: Clara

photos: http://www.folkbladet.nu/?cat=89

Izzy Lane Sale - 50% discount

It's so hot right now in Berlin the last thing I thought I would think about is buying a warm woolen sweater but Izzy Lane's wonderful garments (which I have introduced here) are currently on sale until the 30th of May. Their cut-out cashmere vest looks very nice, the cowl neck jumper is so pretty and the hand-knitted fisherman's sweater would be such a bargain with the 50% off... Follow this link to their website and enter code "Summer09" for a 50% discount.

Im Moment ist es in Berlin so heiß, daß ich von alleine natürlich nie auf den Gedanken gekommen wäre, mir jetzt einen warmen Winterpullover zu kaufen. Allerdings habe ich von Izzy Lane (hier von mir vorgestellt) den netten Hinweis erhalten, daß die Winterkollektion 2008 jetzt bis zum 30. Mai um 50% reduziert ist und die Sachen sind wirklich sowas von schön. Um die 50% Reduzierung zu bekommen einfach diesem Link folgen und den Code "Summer09" beim Bestellvorgang eintragen.
photo credit: izzylane.com

My 100th post: Jean Paul Gaultier for Snow White

Yesterday I went to see the ballet Snow White at Deutsche Oper in Berlin. The costumes were designed by Jean Paul Gaultier and really suited the modern interpretation of the classic fairytale choreographed by Angelin Preljocaj to music by Gustav Mahler. The designs ranged from subtle JPG touches like straps and suspenders to full-blown JPG with the stepmother's bondage queen outfit (which was wonderful) and the best use of fringe I have seen this year (pictured on the right). "This is not the first time that Gaultier designs clothes for dancers. He has collaborated with Régine Chopinot, the choreographer, for 11 years in the past(1983-1994), during which he had sewed costumes for –more or less- 18 ballets choreographed by Chopinot." The performances were truly beautiful, especially the pas de deux between Elisa Carrillo Cabrera and Leonard Jakovina, and the set design was great. I highly, highly recommend to see this on the 12th or 13th of June at Deutsche Oper, Berlin.

Gestern habe ich das Ballett Schneewittchen in der Deutschen Oper, Berlin gesehen. Die Kostüme wurden von Jean Paul Gaultier entworfen und haben sehr gut zur modernen Interpretation des Märchens gepasst, das von Angelin Preljocaj zu Musik von Gustav Mahler ("elektroakustische Ergänzungen" durch 79 D) choreographiert wurde. Das Bondage Queen Outfit der bösen Stiefmutter war einfach grandios, das schönste Fransenkleid des Jahres seht ihr rechts. Gaultier hat viel Erfahrung mit Kleidern für Tänzer, da er in der Vergangenheit (1983-1994) für 18 Balletts von Régine Chopinot Kostüme entworfen hat. Die Aufführung war sehr schön, vor allem die Pas de Deux Szenen mit Elisa Carrillo Cabrera und Leonard Jakovina, und das Bühnenbild großartig. Nur noch am 12. und 13. Juni an der Deutschen Oper, Berlin. Hingehen!

photo credit: reuters.com

Quail - Revisited

I've already introduced Quail on this blog but I thought it was about time to remind you of this nice label: Quail is "A range of classically inspired clothing for men and women handmade in small quantities in Devon, England. An artisan producer Quail uses high quality organic cotton, fairtrade cotton and other ethical textiles to make inspired clothing." (quoted from quailbymail.co.uk) Two styles of women's shirts are currently on sale: the 1940's shirt and Box Pleat Shirt (pictured above in the middle).

Quail habe ich auf meinem Blog schon einmal vorgestellt, aber es ist Zeit mal wieder an dieses schöne Unternehmen zu erinnern: in Devon, England wird aus handgewebten Stoffen klassisch geschnittene Kleidung genäht. Die Stoffe kommen aus Indien, Afrika und Indonesien. Zur Zeit sind zwei Damenhemdmodelle im Angebot: das 1940's Shirt und das Box Pleat Shirt (oben in der Mitte abgebildet).

photo credit: www.quailbymail.co.uk

DIY Blogparade: Shini von Park & Cube

Auf den letzten Drücker hab ich mich jetzt doch entschieden bei der DIY Blogparade von fashion diary mitzumachen. Da ich zwei linke Hände habe, stelle ich kein eigenes DIY vor, sondern die äußerst talentierte und kreative Shini von Park & Cube. Ob mit Ketten verzierte Alexander Wang Jeansshorts, von Rodarte inspirierte Cut-Out Leggings, mit Nieten versehene Vintage Tasche oder selbstbestickte Strumpfhosen à la Doo.Ri - Shini lässt mich immer wieder staunen. Klickt euch doch auch mal durch ihre eindrucksvolle DIY-Galerie.

This is my entry for the DIY blog parade held by "Anna Frost" of fashion diary. Since I am such a loser when it comes to DIY-ing I am introducing Park & Cube's talented Shini to those who don't know her and her amazing DIY skills yet. Check out her Alex Wang shorts, the Rodarte cut-out leggings or her bedazzled tights à la Doo.Ri here.

photo credit: www.parkandcube.com

Komodo

Komodo was launched in 1988 by Mark Bloom so they have recently been "celebrating 20 years in business, still in one piece, still independent and still working with many of the same family run factories in Bali and Kathmandu that we started out with at the end of the 80's and early 90's" (komodo.co.uk). Komodo is a member of the MADE-BY organisation: "MADE-BY is an independent consumer label for fashion companies who continuously improve and are transparent about the social, economic and ecological conditions throughout the whole supply chain of their collections." (made-by.nl)
Check out Komodo's latest collection in their webshop or at adili.com.

Komodo wurde 1988 vom Briten Mark Bloom gegründet, feierte also letztes Jahr sein 20-jähriges Jubiläum als unabhängiges Fashionlabel, das heute mit vielen der gleichen Familienbetrieben auf Bali und in Kathmandu arbeitet wie noch vor 20 Jahren. Komodo ist ein Mitglied der MADE-BY Organisation: "MADE BY ist ein unabhängiges Verbraucherlabel für Modemarken und -händler, die die sozialen, ökonomischen und ökologischen Bedingungen in der Produktionskette ihrer Kollektionen verbessern und diese Ketten transparent machen möchten." (made-by.nl)
Die Sommerkollektion ist im Komodo-Webshop erhältlich, auf der Webseite findet ihr auch Händler in eurer Nähe oder schaut im Adili Webshop vorbei.

Why buy fair trade

"Safia - Some people say earning ‘something’ is better than earning nothing! Or however low the salary is it’s better than no salary – or better than other work like, prostitution.

Amin - People who respond in this way saying low wage are better than no wages are confused. The factory worker is producing clothes – and as a consumer you should take responsibility for the producer of the clothes you buy. Consumers should ask themselves why should a person who works for me go with half a lunch or live in a slum, or not get any medical treatment when they become sick due to the long hours caused by making cheap clothes for me. People need to be more aware of how business works."

The full interview can be found on Safia's blog but since it is a bit difficult to find I have also inserted it here:

May 01, 2009
Why we need to pay more for Primark + be sure that it 'trickles down' to the workers

Safia talks to Mr Amin, Director of National Garment Workers Federation, who represents garment workers and campaigns for their rights about the grim realities of the real costs of fast fashion.

title slum.jpg
Home to garment factory workers

Safia - Can you tell me how many factories a company like Primark will be sourcing from?

Amin - About 50-100 factories in Bangladesh.

Safia - What kind of problems do you hear from these garment workers?

Amin - Long working hours instead of 9 hours they work 14 hours or even 18-20 hours and all night too through enforced overtime. They also do not earn a living wage which is estimated at 5000 taka per month here.

Safia - What are the health risks of working such long hours?

Amin - 8am to 4am means they have only four hours off, to get to their homes, shower, eat, they have no more than two hours sleep. For the women workers it is harder as they have to look after their homes as well.

Safia - Some people say earning ‘something’ is better than earning nothing! Or however low the salary is it’s better than no salary – or better than other work like, prostitution.

Amin - People who respond in this way saying low wage are better than no wages are confused. The factory worker is producing clothes – and as a consumer you should take responsibility for the producer of the clothes you buy. Consumers should ask themselves why should a person who works for me go with half a lunch or live in a slum, or not get any medical treatment when they become sick due to the long hours caused by making cheap clothes for me. People need to be more aware of how business works. The consumer pays for a top in Primark, the consumer needs to know how much Primark pays to the local factory – a £7 shirt may pay only £1-1.50 to a local factory owner. At £1.50, 7-8% will go to the garment worker as the labour cost.

If a garment is too cheap, the factories suffers and cannot pay its workers properly. If consumers put pressure on Primark to charge more and pass on the benefit to the garment workers, even a few percent increase, it would make a big difference in improving the workers situation but add little to the price.

Fashion companies can also reduce their indirect costs to increase the money that goes to the workers. There is no need to entertain buyers in 5 star hotels and even pay for their 5 star hotel accommodation in some cases. No need to spend money bribing government labour departments as they are violating labour laws. And so need to bribe political parties sometimes to make it easier to undermine workers rights.

Safia - Have labour standards and conditions of the garment workers improved over the last two years?

Amin - There are some tiny steps. There are people called ‘Compliance officers/managers/directors’ who have little training but they do not visit the slums or bother to find out the real situation of their workers. They need to involve the Trade Union organisations- they have to be motivated to communicate with their workers.

Safia - What steps could be taken to improve communication then?

Amin - One solution would be that the company gives the trade union a list of factories they are working with, asking for a list of labour violations at each, then a committee is set up with representatives from a trade union, the factory management and the fashion company. In this way, within as little as a month, everyone would understand the realities on the ground and be able to work out solutions together.

Safia - Has the National Garment Workers Federation worked with a conventional fashion company in this way?

Amin - Tesco, Walmart, Gap, H&M use an auditing company to do it. They just want a report. They don't want genuine improvements.

Safia - Are there any examples of best practice

Amin - Not yet

Safia - Profits are running high in fast fashion at the cost of workers human rights. Companies like Primark made £230 million profit last year - that doesn't seem fair at all.

Amin - Consumers are buying the products made by these workers. If profits are running into millions of pounds part of it should be spent improving peoples welfare. It should be there moral obligation.

Consumers need to be more aware of the terrible livng and working conditions of garment factory workers in the developing world. I believe that if they were more aware of the situation on the ground, they would pressurise companies to make their trading practice humane.

Les Fées de Bengale Summer 2009

picture credit: www.lesfeesdebengale.fr