Summer Sale at Stewart & Brown

Launched in 2002 Karen Stewart's and Howard Brown's label offers "high quality, stylish clothing with minimal impact on the planet". "The Stewart + Brown collection is composed of various product categories including: ORGNC, an organic cotton line which includes pima, jersey crepe, fleece and French terry; SURP+, apparel and accessories made from excess fabrics and materials; and GREEN, designs from naturally cultivated fibers like linen and hemp."
They also offer knits made under fair trade conditions in China (see their FAQ section at the bottom of the webpage).

To watch an interview with Karen & Howard click here.

Das 2002 von Karen Stewart und Howard Brown gegründete Label bietet stylische Kleidung von hoher Qualität, deren Produktion so umweltschonend wie möglich geschieht. Ihre Kollektion umfasst die Bereiche: ORGNC, Jersey-, Fleece- und Frotteestoffe aus Bio-Baumwoll; SURP+, Kleidung und Accessoires aus Resten hochwertiger Stoffe anderer Produzenten; GREEN, Kleidung aus Bio-Leinen und Bio-Hanf. Außerdem werden Strickwaren aus Fair Trade Handel mit chinesischen Produzenten angeboten (mehr dazu auf ihrer FAQ Seite).

Ein Interview mit Karen & Howard findet ihr hier. Die Kleidung wird in mehreren deutschen Geschäften verkauft (der Onlineshop versendet leider nur nach USA und Kanada). Eine Liste gibt es hier auf der Webseite.

Hess Natur

Hess Natur is a German fashion label that was launched in 1976 and has since become a pioneer of eco-friendly and socially responsible fashion. This year they hired Miguel Adrover on a five year contract as their new creative director and entered the US market. To read more check out these articles: Suzy Menkes for the International Herald Tribune and Alfons Kaiser für die FAZ.

To be honest I had no idea who Adrover was when I first read about this and to be even more honest I was actually quite disappointed when I saw his designs in the online catalogue. Supposedly he was brought in to make Hess Natur more fashionable without alienating loyal customers but I think he just blends in too much with their other designs which are timeless and classic but could really use some fashion-forward details.

Lets see how this develops.

Hess Natur wurde 1976 im hessischen Butzbach gegründet und ist ein vorbildliches Fair Trade und Ökomode-Unternehmen. Dieses Jahr wurde Miguel Adrover als neuer Kreativdirektor für fünf Jahre angeheuert und Hess Natur wird jetzt auch in den USA verkauft. Wer mehr über die Kooperation lesen möchte: Suzy Menkes in der International Herald Tribune und Alfons Kaiser für die FAZ.

Um ehrlich zu sein hatte ich keine Ahnung wer Adrover ist, als ich diese Nachricht das erste Mal gelesen habe und um noch ehrlicher zu sein, war ich dann sehr enttäuscht als ich seine Entwürfe im Online-Katalog sah. Es ist doch anzunehmen, dass Adrover eingestellt wurde, um der Marke Hess Natur modisch auf die Sprünge zu helfen, aber seine Entwürfe passen sich meiner Meinung zu stark an das alte Design an. Das ist zwar zeitlos und klassisch könnte aber auf jeden Fall ein paar modische Details vertragen.

Mal schauen was noch kommt.

‘They want to work – they don’t want aid’

Via Safia Minney's blog I found this article in the Daily Mail:

"‘They want to work – they don’t want aid’: British clothing label People Tree is committed to fashion without making victims of the workers who produce its designs. Liz Jones visited Bangladesh with company founder Safia Minney to find out how its Fairtrade practices are making a huge difference in one village."

I am quite curious to find out how the influence of Jane Shepherdson will change People Tree's style. I think that scarves and shirts made of their amazing handwoven plaid fabrics would sell like hotcakes:

"Last year, Jane Shepherdson, who left Topshop after 20 years as brand director, joined People Tree’s board. Her input won’t be seen until the autumn 2008 collection, but already she is encouraging Safia to move away from the more homespun, ethnic pieces and towards more tailored, smarter clothes that can be worn in the office."

To read the full article: click here.

Über den Blog von Safia Minney, der Gründerin des Fair Trade Fashion Labels People Tree, habe ich diesen Artikel aus der Daily Mail gefunden. Die Journalistin Liz Jones reiste mit Minney nach Bangladesch, um über die Arbeit des Unternehmens zu berichten. Jane Shepherdson, die 20 Jahre für Topshop gearbeitet hat, ist jetzt Teil des Vorstands von People Tree. Ich bin gespannt, wie sich ihr Einfluß auf die Entwürfe auswirken wird.

The Guardian's Ethical Fashion Directory

Check out the interactive Ethical Fashion Directory of the Guardian: click here.

Die englische Zeitung The Guardian hat auf ihrer Internetseite ein interaktives Verzeichnis für ethisch produzierte Kleidung.

Veja

Veja shoes are cut, sewn and assembled in a cooperative in Southern Brazil. They use chrome-free leather tanned with organic compounds only. For more information check out the photo album about the producers and the videos on their website.

"Veja’s canvas is made of organic cotton cultivated by 2 cooperatives of small producers in Brazil." "Veja offers twice the market price to the Brazilian producers to buy their organic cotton. This price has been negotiated with the producers and does not depend on the world market price, which is strongly lowered by European and North American subsidies."

"Veja soles are made of natural latex coming straight from the Amazon Forest in the Chico Mendes reserve. The Amazon is the only place on earth where wild rubber trees are to be found. Seringueiros collect latex for more than two hundred years.

Their activity, which does not require putting down any tree, is a great way to preserve the world’s largest forest. Natural rubber is renewable and biodegradable, as opposed to synthetic rubber or plastic, which is produced by using fossil and non-renewable materials." (all quotes: http://www.veja.fr/)

*****
Veja Schuhe werden in Brasilien hergestellt. Es wird chromfrei gegerbtes Leder verwendet, das mit organischen Extrakten gegerbt wird. Für mehr Informationen schaut euch das Foto-Album über die Produzenten und die Videos auf der Webseite an.

Die Baumwolle für den Stoff der Veja Schuhe wird von zwei Kooperativen in Brasilien angebaut. Veja zahlt den Baumwollbauern das Doppelte des Weltmarktpreises, der durch Europäische und Nordamerikanische Subventionen niedrig gehalten wird.

Die Sohlen werden aus wildem Latex hergestellt. Der Latex wird im Amazonas-Regenwald von den Seringueiros geerntet. Der natürliche Latex der Kautschukbäume ist eine nachwachsende Ressource und biologisch abbaubar im Gegensatz zu synthetischem Gummi od. Plastik das aus fossilen Materialien gewonnen wird. Veja Schuhe sind in Berlin in folgenden Läden erhältlich: F95, Frankfurter Allee 95-97, Belleville, Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 27, Schuhbar Berlin, Rykestr. 47 und können online bei www.glore.de bestellt werden.

Summer Sale at Quail

Quail was launched by Shauna Chapman and Jason Clark in 2006 and is based in South Devon. Quail's classic tailored designs are made in England with organic fair trade handloomed fabrics like cotton and silk from India and handloomed (!) tweed from Scotland. They also use South African Shweshwe Cotton as well as Ghanaian and Indonesian batiks (look at their website to find out more about these).

I highly recommend to check out these wonderful clothes. They ship internationally.

Quail wurde 2006 von Shauna Chapman and Jason Clark in der Grafschaft South Devon gegründet. Die klassisch geschnittene Mode des Labels Quail wird in England produziert und verarbeitet fair gehandelte handgewebte Bio-Stoffe aus Baumwolle und Seide (aus Indien) sowie handgewebten (!) Tweed (aus Schottland). Außerdem werden traditionell hergestellte Sheshwe Baumwollstoffe aus Südafrika und Batikstoffe aus Ghana und Indonesien verwendet (mehr Informationen zu diesen Stoffen findet ihr auf der Webseite).

"Das Modelabel ADD und das Abenteuer Asien-Produktion"

Den etwas anderen Bericht zum Thema Kleiderproduktion in Asien von ADD Designerin Wibke Deertz könnt ihr hier bei De:Bug lesen.

Kiva Micro Credits

Today I made my first loans to three Cambodian women via Kiva: "Kiva's mission is to connect people through lending for the sake of alleviating poverty. Kiva is the world's first person-to-person micro-lending website, empowering individuals to lend directly to unique entrepreneurs in the developing world."

I am quite wary of foreign aid efforts but I am all for empowering people to help themselves. Micro credits help people who would not be able to receive a loan from a regular bank. Instead of having to loan money from credit sharks micro credit institutes offer interest free loans.

"Microfinance programs have generally targeted poor women. Many qualitative and quantitative studies have documented how access to financial services has improved the status of women within the family and the community. Women have become more assertive and confident. In regions where women's mobility is strictly regulated, women have become more visible and are better able to negotiate the public sphere. Women own assets, including land and housing, and play a stronger role in decision making."

Mrs. Dorn Choen (pictured) is a silk weaver and is asking for a loan to build her own house. Mrs. Samut Pol spins silk thread for her daughter who is a silk weaver. She is asking for a loan to finish the construction of her house. "Suy Phally has asked for a loan of $1000 USD to make an investment in her childrens' tailoring business. She would like to purchase more cloth for their business, so that they can make more clothes." (quotes from www.kiva.org)

To read more about micro credits: Wikipedia entry

Heute habe ich mein erstes Kiva-Darlehen an drei Frauen aus Kambodscha vergeben. "Kiva portiert das Mikrofinanz-Konzept auf eine neue Ebene, indem sie es jedermann ermöglicht, ein Darlehensgeber ("Lender") zu werden. Der Geldgeber kann selbst bestimmen, welche Personen oder Projekte er fördern möchte." Ich stehe der Entwicklungshife eher skeptisch gegenüber, finde aber daß es sinnvoll ist, Menschen zu helfen sich selbst zu helfen. Zinslose Mikro-Kredite werden an Menschen vergeben, die so arm sind, daß sie von einer normalen Bank kein Darlehen bekommen würden. Die drei Frauen, die ich ausgesucht habe, arbeiten als Seidenweberinnen oder Schneiderin. www.kiva.org; Wikipedia-Eintrag zu Mikrokrediten.

Inexplicably drawn to trashy beaded earrings

I really love those flamingo earrings but I know that they wouldn't look good on me (so sad). They are hand made by a woman from California and they are sold via Ebay.

Zu gerne würde ich diese Flamingo Ohrringe kaufen, aber leider bin ich mir 100% sicher, daß sie an mir nicht gut aussehen würden. Sie werden von einer Frau aus Kalifornien hergestellt, die sie über Ebay verkauft.

Thoughts about fair trade - part one

The easiest approach to define fair trade is probably to describe unfair trade: child-labor, working more than nine/ten hours each day, working six/seven days a week, no health insurance, no holidays, no sick-leave, no maternity leave, getting paid less than the minimum wage, being exposed to health hazards at your workplace, unpaid overtime and so on. These kind of working conditions are rampant in sweatshops around the globe.

Unfortunately most high street garments which are available today are made in sweatshops. Why is this possible: economic globalization. "The popularity of the "free" market [...] hastened the globalization process. Large corporations are now free to seek out low-wage havens: impoverished countries where corporations benefit from oppressive dictatorial regimes that actively suppress workers' freedoms of speech and association."

So how can one avoid buying products made in a sweatshop? It definitely isn't easy especially when it comes to fashion since the availability of fair trade fashion is still limited compared to the choice offered by conventionally produced clothes. However I want to show that there are beautiful alternatives. I would say that the safest way to buy sweatshop-free products is to buy from local producers hence my "Made in Berlin" posts. Then there are some credible labels like "People Tree" and "Misericordia" (and this list will grow much longer as soon as I have time for more research).

If you want to find out more about working conditions in the garment industry I recommend the clean clothes campaign, Kampagne für Saubere Kleidung, war on want - lets clean up fashion and frequently asked questions about sweatshops.

Made in Berlin: Aehrenkranz

Abgebildet sind Armbänder, Halsschmuck und eine Lederkappe der Designerin Annette Becker, die für ihr Label Aehrenkranz auch Hand- und Fußgelenkstaschen in Berlin herstellen lässt. Da ich mich mit letzteren Produkten allerdings noch nicht so richtig anfreunden konnte, müsst ihr euch bei Interesse die Bilder auf ihrer Webseite www.aehrenkranz.de anschauen. Was meint ihr: super oder seltsam?

Wristbands, leather chokers and a leather cap by designer Annette Becker. Her label Aehrenkranz also offers small bags that can be worn around the wrist or ankle. I'm not sure what to think of these gadget holders. If you are interested check out the web site www.aehrenkranz.de What do you think: yay or nay?

Summer Sale at Machja

The Corsican label Machja was launched in 2005 by Catherine Soundirarassou, Indo-Vietnamese, and Jean Louis Rossi, Corsican, who describe their company's style as casual chic.

"Machja chooses producers who guarantee their workers fair wages and decent working conditions. Machja sweatshirts and t-shirts are made in the Tamil Nadu region of southern India. The workshop is run by a convent of Franciscan nuns, and employs 120 disabled young women.
Machja jeans are made of organic cotton (from Mali, Senegal and Cameroon) certified by Max Havelaar, and are sown and assembled in a Tunisian factory awaiting Max Havelaar certification.

All articles are made of totally natural materials. Machja uses only certified (Eco-cert, Skal et IMO) organic cotton, free of pesticides and polluting chemicals."

Das korsische Label Machja wurde 2005 von Catherine Soundirarassou, einer Indo-Vietnamesin, und Jean Louis Rossi, einem Korsen, gegründet. Machja lässt von Kleidungsherstellern produzieren, die ihren Arbeitern faire Löhne und anständige Arbeitsbedingungen bieten. Die Sweat- und T-shirts werden in einer Werkstätte in Süd-Indien genäht, die von Franziskaner-Nonnen geführt wird und in der 120 Frauen mit Behinderung arbeiten. Machja Jeans werden aus zertifizierter Bio-Baumwolle (aus Mali, Senegal und Kamerun) in einer tunesischen Fabrik mit Max Havelaar Zertifikat hergestellt.

BBC's new online fash mag "Thread"

The BBC has launched a new "monthly online fashion magazine bringing you the latest in eco-fabulous style." I only took a quick glance today and I do recommend to check it out however I extremely disliked the "blood, sweat and t-shirt" videos. They are like Michael Moore at his worst wagging a finger at us naughty consumers.

I hope I will never come across like this. I don't want to guilt people into buying products from fair trade labels but I do want to show that there are alternatives to high street brands.

Die BBC hat mit "Thread" ein neues monatliches Online-Modemagazin ins Leben gerufen, das sich mit ethisch korrekter und ökologisch einwandfreier Kleidung beschäftigt. Ich habe es mir heute nur kurz angesehen: auch wenn die "blood, sweat and t-shirt" Videos einige interessante Informationen liefern, sind sie leider in schrecklichster Michael Moore Manier gemacht. Hoffentlich komme ich nie so rüber... Es lohnt sich trotzdem, sich die Seite anzuschauen.

ps: "Thread" habe ich auf dem "Grüne Mode" Blog der Greenpeace Redakteurin Kirsten Brodde entdeckt

Misericordia

Misericordia was launched in Lima, the capital of Peru, in 2002 by French designer Aurelyen. Aurelyen designs Misericordia's clothes together with his employees in their workshop "Cabaña of Alta Costura" in Lima. They exclusively use fabrics produced in Peru by national companies.

"Misericordia's objective is to guarantee a fair income [...] The hourly rate salary of Misericordia's workers is 35% higher [than] the Peruvian minimum salary. Each employee receives a 15 months income (11 months of salary, 1 month of paid-vacation, 2 months of bonus and 1 month due to their future retirement and benefits of a health insurance [...] The main objective of Misericordia is also to support each employee in his personal development by offering him some help beyond the financial part."

Misericordia wurde 2002 in Lima, Peru von dem französischen Designer Aurelyen gegründet. Aurelyen entwirft die Misericordia Kleidung zusammen mit seinen Angestellten in ihrer Werkstatt "Cabaña of Alta Costura". Sie verwenden ausschließlich Stoffe, die in Peru von nationalen Firmen hergestellt werden. Der Lohn der Näher/innen liegt 35% über dem peruanischen Mindestlohn und es werden 15 Monatsgehälter gezahlt.

Achtung: die aus 37 Teilen gefertigte Joker-Jacke (linkes Bild) gibt es zur Zeit im Sale bei www.true-fashion.de

Made in Berlin: Trippen

German shoe manufacturer "Trippen" was launched in 1992 by Michael Oehler and Angela Spieth. Their vision: modern design combined with environmental friendliness, sustainability and social responsibility using the best materials. In 1995 the first flagshipstore opened in Berlin and today their shoes are sold in more than 450 shops worldwide from Beijing to Reykjavik. The shoes are made exclusively in Berlin and Northern Italy. "Trippen" shoes have won several product design awards.

The Trippen flagshipstore is located at Hackesche Höfe 4 & 6 in Berlin Mitte. For bargains check out their outlet store on Köpenicker Straße 187/188 in Berlin Kreuzberg.

Die deutsche Schuhmanufaktur "Trippen" wurde 1992 von Michael Oehler und Angela Spieth gegründet. Ihre Vision: modernes Design in Kombination mit umweltbewußter, nachhaltiger und sozial verantwortlicher Herstellung. 1995 öffnete der erste Laden in Berlin und heute werden ihre Schuhe in mehr als 450 Shops auf der ganzen Welt verkauft. Die Schuhe werden in Berlin und Italien produziert. "Trippen" Schuhe haben mehrere Designpreise gewonnen. Der Trippen-Flagshipstore befindet sich in den Hackeschen Höfe, Hof 4 & 6. Das Outlet ist in der Köpenicker Straße 187/188 in Berlin Kreuzberg.

Summer Sale at People Tree

People Tree was launched in Japan by social entrepreneur Safia Minney in 1997. This fair trade fashion line uses handwoven and handprinted cloth and collaborates with designers like Thakoon, Richard Nicoll and Bora Aksu. In 2006 People Tree launched fair trade on the UK high street with a concession in Topshop's flagship Oxford Circus store in London.

"In order to ensure People Tree fashion meets the Fair Trade principles set out by IFAT (International Fair Trade Association), we work closely with 50 Fair Trade groups in 15 countries. That way, we can bring benefits to people and the planet at as many steps of the production process as possible – growing cotton, weaving, dyeing, embroidery, stitching etc. – helping alleviate poverty in the world's most marginalised communities."

People Tree wurde 1997 in Japan von Safia Minney gegründet. Dieses Fair Trade (IFAT) Modelabel verwendet handgewobene und von Hand bedruckte Stoffe, lässt seine Kleidung von 50 verschiedenen Werkstätten in 15 Ländern herstellen und arbeitet mit Designern wie Thakoon, Richard Nicoll und Bora Aksu. Seit 2006 wird People Tree auch im Topshop Flagshipstore in London verkauft.

Achtung Germans: Shopping Portal Bransparent

"Bransparent stellt Modelabel vor die umwelt- und sozialfreundlich produzieren. Wir zeigen ihre Produkte, wo es sie zu kaufen gibt und erklären, wieso sie ausgewählt wurden."

Summer Sale Kuyichi @ asos.com

Kuyichi was launched by the Dutch NGO Solidaridad in 2001. "Kuyichi's first focus is on style - design, fit and quality - and to be conscious of how it's created - organic cotton and fair trade." Kuyichi uses certified organic Pima cotton from Peru and about 1/3 of their products are manufactured there.

For a more detailed description of Kuyichi's policies and the SA8000 standard read:
http://www.cleanclothes.org/companies/kuyichi.htm

Das Streetstyle-Label Kuyichi wurde 2001 von der niederländischen Nichtregierungsorganisation "Solidaridad" gegründet. Kuyichi verwendet Bio-Baumwolle und lässt unter Fair Trade Bedingungen produzieren. Etwa 1/3 der Kleidungsstücke werden in Peru hergestellt. Hier gibt es mehr Informationen.

Why I've started this blog

So why have I started this blog... I have a closet full of high street brand clothes but I always wondered about the circumstances of their production. I am hoping that running this blog will make me a more informed consumer who will make better shopping decisions in the future and maybe I can inspire some people to do the same.

Other than buying products that weren't made in a sweatshop here are some other ideas how we can make a change (I'd love to read more suggestions - add your comment!):

• go thrifting - for inspiration visit Lauren's fabulous blog "Fops and Dandies", look at "Dreamecho", "Fashion Toast", "Karla's Closet" or any of the other fashion blogs that are written by women who love to go thrifting.

• make your own clothes - it's a lot of fun but you need some patience. Have a look at burdastyle.com

• buy handmade clothes from Etsy or Dawanda

• swap clothes with your friends

Summer Sale at EDUN

"EDUN is a socially conscious clothing company launched in Spring 2005 by Ali Hewson and Bono. The company's mission is to create beautiful clothing while fostering sustainable employment in developing areas of the world, particularly Africa.

EDUN is a for-profit business founded on the premise of trade, not aid as a means of building sustainable communities. The company works on a micro-level to help build the skill sets of factories where the clothes are produced. EDUN is currently produced in India, Peru, Tunisia, Kenya, Uganda, Lesotho, Mauritius and Madagascar."

The Clean Clothes Campaign's point of view on Edun:
http://www.cleanclothes.org/companies/edun.htm

Edun wurde im Frühjahr 2005 von dem U2-Sänger Bono und seiner Frau Ali Hewson gegründet. Ihre Mission: schöne Kleidung kreieren und dabei Arbeitsplätze in der Entwicklungsländern schaffen besonders in Afrika. Edun ist ein kommerzielles Unternehmen, das nach dem Motto "trade not aid" (Handel statt Entwicklungshilfe) agiert. Die Kleidung wird zurzeit in Indien, Peru, Tunesien, Kenia, Uganda, Lesotho, Mauritius und Madagaskar produziert.

Die unabhängige Initiative "Saubere Kleidung" schreibt dies über Edun.

First Post

Dear y'all,

today I decided to start a blog on fair shopping, i.e. shopping clothes, shoes and accessories that weren't made in a sweatshop.

I am looking forward to present brands and shops that offer guilt-free AND fashionable products.

This, unfortunately, isn't an easy task since even brands that set out to trade fairly don't always suceed. However, I will write about brands that I think at least try to make a difference. Ultimately you will have to decide for yourself who to trust and hopefully I can provide some helpful information.

Have a nice day
Fair shopping fairy